In the middle of the conversation, Verónica Hernández García (León, 36 years old) asks to interrupt the call because she has to attend to a customs request. It is the most bureaucratic, least attractive and most tedious part of his job at the head of Tesuko, the tea sales business that he started a few years ago with his partner, Pavel García, with the intention of bringing high-quality teas to Spain and spread knowledge about this drink about which, when speaking with Hernández García, one realizes that he does not know everything about it. “95% of the tea that enters Europe enters through Rotterdam or the Netherlands. Tea does not expire as such, but it does lose on an organoleptic level. We could find the best supplier and bring it, but we didn't know the traceability, there was a lot of data missing… that's when we started to think that we had to import directly,” explains Hernández García, who goes by the professional name Verónica Hegar. ”In Japan, they only have one last name,” she adds. More information Hegar studied occupational psychology and dedicated herself to that until one day a tea sommelier certification crossed her path. Until then she only saw this drink through the prism of a hobby, but that immersion made her see that she wanted to dedicate herself to it professionally. “I was wondering: 'What am I worth? A conventional tea shop?' “I wanted something more exclusive where it offered something really good,” she says. But before launching into the project she felt that she lacked “real knowledge” and went to work in Japan. “Everyone has seen a vineyard, but with tea it is different. She didn't know what she was looking for, but she did want to know more.” And what he found during his experience in a tea producing company in Wazuka – a small town in the prefecture of Kyoto – laid the foundations for what Tesuko is today: bringing “exceptional teas” to Spain, purchased directly from the producers and complying with all health guarantees. “I started right in the harvest season and I was able to experience the first one, which is carried out by hand. Then this collection is sold in a kind of auction in which the teas are tested and there are collectors who buy them. That day two kilos and 200 grams were produced, there were 200 of us and there I understood why the tea was aimed at the emperor and the court and that it requires a lot of labor to process. They sold for $4,000,” she tells as an anecdote.Hegar, on a tea plantation in Japan during the harvest. Image provided by the brand. Keisuke Inoue. In Japan he immersed himself in a culture, that of tea, which today he enthusiastically conveys to those who ask him, showing that the drink is largely unknown and that, for example, as happens with wine, the terroir influences it. He says, for example, that in some cases, such as green tea, it can be infused several times; that the names red, green, blue, white or black vary depending on the area of the world in which it is consumed. “In the West we identify different teas based on the color they have in the cup. In China, they look at the leaves. If you go to China and order a red tea, you will see in the cup the equivalent of a black tea,” he explains. The way they found back in 2016 to start marketing their product to an audience that looked at quality and understood The price difference with commercial tea was working closely with specialty coffee shops. Specifically, with Hola Coffee Fourquet, in Madrid, whose owners, Nolo Botana and Pablo Caballero, he calls “friends.” “It was serendipity.” Hegar also remembers perfectly that the first time they imported a “very small” batch from Japan of 20 kilos of several varieties: Hojicha – a green tea that is grown in the shade –, Kukicha – green tea without caffeine – and Wako-cha – black tea. For some time, Japan was the only country where they bought product, but since 95% of what is produced there is green tea, Hegar decided that it was “missing some notes”, so they also began to work with Nepal. . There are now five origins in their catalogue, including Malawi, India and China. “Most places where tea is grown are developing countries. Generally, there is a direct relationship between the quality of the tea and how workers are treated. The teas are spectacular, but we also select them because they are doing things differently,” he clarifies.
