Kerry Taylor, the fashion auction expert who refused to sell Queen Elizabeth II's underwear

Every day at seven in the morning, Kerry Taylor (North Wales, 62 years old) opens her email to read the emails that come to her from all corners of the world offering her vintage clothes. “Most of the time it doesn't have much value,” explains the owner of the eponymous auction house. “But sometimes I come across something very special and I jump out of bed to respond right away.” Throughout her 45 years as an expert in fashion auctions, she has sold pieces owned by Lady Di —such as the black dress in which she danced with John Travolta at the White House in 1985—, Ava Gardner, Kate Middleton and Audrey Hepburn, in addition to garments that were key in the image of artists such as Madonna, Björk or Amy Winehouse. Half historian, half detective, she has the gift of discovering treasures in the most unexpected places. As an example, a Christian Dior dress that Elizabeth Taylor wore to collect her Oscar for best actress in 1961, which appeared in an old suitcase in London and ended up selling for about 300,000 euros; or some designs by Madeleine Vionnet without a label that she found rolled up in plastic. On occasion she has received the odd surprise that she had to reject: “The only time I did it for ethical reasons was when they presented me with a pair of panties with embroidered initials belonging to Queen Elizabeth II of England from the 1950s, which they had obtained from a plane. Someone from the crew gave them to the person who offered them to me. I thought it was in very bad taste, a lack of respect. I would have accepted from Queen Victoria, but I wouldn't even dream of selling Queen Elizabeth's underwear,» he acknowledges in conversation with EL PAÍS. More informationTaylor grew up on her father's farm and her first contact with fashion came thanks to the films of Hollywood in black and white. She began working at Sotheby's, and at just 21 years old she became the youngest director and auctioneer in the organization's history. When this auction house closed its fashion division in 2003, she found herself out of work as a single mother of two children and with a mortgage. “First I panicked, then I asked my former bosses if I could keep the business they didn't want. They agreed and I haven’t looked back since.” Today Kerry Taylor Auctions, based in south London, organizes about six sales a year (although during 2024 they have held 11 in London and 4 in Paris), managed by a team of four people, including her son Alex .Black Valentino cocktail dress from the autumn-winter 1970-71 collection worn by actress Audrey Hepburn.Kerry TaylorAt the time of the conversation with this newspaper, the auctioneer is preparing the final details of the sale that will close this year's calendar , the so-called Passion for Fashion, scheduled for December 10. It is a recurring event that covers contemporary and vintage design, luxury accessories, haute couture and antiques. “In this edition we have a lot of Chanel and Vivienne Westwood, a black Valentino haute couture dress worn by Audrey Hepburn and another quite horrible one signed by Ian Thomas that belonged to Margaret Thatcher. About 80 Galliano pieces, including the dress that appeared in Sex and the City with a newspaper print, very wearable,” she explains. “It is very interesting to see that Queen Letizia of Spain chose vintage Balenciaga for her portrait of Annie Leibovitz. “We have a wonderful pink Balenciaga Haute Couture ball gown from 1955, perfect for those looking for something worthy of royalty.”The newspaper print dress designed by Galliano worn by Carrie Bradshaw, the character played by Sarah Jessica Parker, in 'Sex and the City'.Kerry TaylorHer good eye and the media coverage of her auctions have contributed to the current popularity of fashion vintage. “The houses that closed their fashion departments have reopened them, to compete with me!” he complains. But the businesswoman has the assets of encyclopedic knowledge and the additional information that she always provides: “It is absolutely necessary to offer security. Now there are very well-made fakes, so we don't let our guard down and we rarely make mistakes. The prices of this type of clothing are constantly rising, there are people who are interested in manufacturing fakes or changing labels to achieve these quantities. Museums and private collections trust their guarantees. “We have some of the most famous and richest women in the world as clients. I'm not going to name names, but I'm sure that during this Oscar ceremony or party you will see pieces from Kerry Taylor,” she ventures. This bidding war is also accompanied by a growing interest from fashion brands, which are once again purchasing their own products to protect their assets: “It is a good investment because current designers, lacking ideas, turn to archives for inspiration.” «I'm not saying copy!» he says, laughing.A silk skirt from 1775 included in one of the lots at the 'Passion for Fashion' auction.Kerry TaylorTaylor admits that the unstable global economic situation does not affect her profits, which continue to break records. “Can I say one thing? The rich are always rich, no matter the state of the economy,” he says. “Despite everything, we continue to represent good quality – price. A boring Chanel jacket bought in a store costs 10,000 euros, and I sell a Chanel haute couture suit for a thousand. If you bid against retailers you may end up getting something at a good price because the owners of the establishments have to pay rent and employees. Ready-to-wear is very boring today and its prices are crazy. They make my sales look cheap!” His commercial spirit does not prevent him from giving tips for those who are starting out and do not have large budgets: “I recommend investing in Pierre Balmain, he was a very good designer and is still quite affordable. His estate is not very active and no major books have been published about his work. I also suggest Givenchy, and the less baroque pieces from Saint Laurent.” Aren't you tempted to build your own fashion collection? “I never bid against my clients, that's taboo. Besides, I do nothing but work and never go anywhere. I occasionally pick up a 1950s dress from a vintage shop to wear to work, but generally I spend the day in jeans and wellies in my garden.”